Page 51 - Shawl Weaving Artisan - TT

Needle-board: this wooden perforated board serves maximum variety of sheds for ornamenting the fabrics.
as a guide. It has holes corresponding to the number of (Fig 3)
needles presented to the cylinder.
Fig 3
Hooks: are vertical wires bent at the top to form the
hook. The hook holds its position over the griffe bar, at
the bottom the hooks double at the base and is turned
upwards for about one third of their lengths. This doubled
end is passed through a narrow slot in the grate, which
prevents the hook from twisting around. The neck cords
are looped to this bottom portion of the hook to which
the harness cords are connected.
Griffe: strong horizontal iron knifes are contained in an
iron frame called griffe. The griffe with knifes are worked
vertically to rise and fall. There are as many knifes in a
jacquard as there are hooks in the short row.
Cylinder: the punched cards are laced to form an endless
chain and are passed over a four sided, seasoned wood
prism called cylinder. Each face of the wooden cylinder
is perforated corresponding to the number of needles.
The function of the card cylinder is to present, one card In figure 3, upright wires are hooks [2] and the bent
to the needles at a time, for every 1/4th revolution of the horizontal wires are needles [4]. The needle board [6]
cylinder. is a perforated board through which the needles pass.
The back end of the needles pass through springs in the
Pattern cards: punched pattern cards are laced together spring box [7]. The hooks rest on the cross wires of the
to form an endless chain. There are lace holes at each fixed grate[8].
corner and in the centre for lengthy pattern cards to
increase their stability. A 400 hooks jacquard machine At the bottom end of the hooks there are strong chords
pattern card size would be about 6 cm in width x 40 cm of twine called neck chord [9].The neck chords are
in length. connected with strong and long chords called harness
chords [10] which pass through a perforated board called
Card cradle: are provided (where large number of cards comber board [11]. Harness chords hold small metallic
are required to produce the design) below the steel girders eyes called mail eyes [12] which are connected with
over which the jacquard machine is mounted, to keep the dead weights called lingoes [13]. Warp threads which
punched cards in sequence and in a convenient position. are to be lifted in accordance with the design pattern to
The cradle consists of two curved iron rods slightly larger be woven, pass through the mail eyes. Top of the hooks
than the length of the cards. Metal wires are inserted in [2] rest on metallic plates called knives [3] and the knives
the punched card chain at regular intervals of 12, 16, 20 rest on a metallic frame called griffe[1]. Hooks are lifted
or more cards as suitable. These rods are slightly larger upwards by upward movement of the griffe by means of a
than the punched cards. These metal rods both ends system which consists of lever, rope and treadle which is
rest on the curved sides of the cradle allowing the cards operated by weaver with his/her foot in handloom . When
to form a neat stack above the warp sheet. the griffe moves upward, the cards of the perforated four
Harness: the jacquard harness consists of a neck cord side cylinder [14] is pressed against the needles .And if
connected to the bottom of the hook and threaded through there is hole in the card, the needle directly opposite to
the bottom board. The yellow harness cords are connected the hole will pass through it and into the perforation in
to the neck cord and are passed separately through the the cylinder, and the knife will take up the hook to which
comber board, extending across the width of the loom. this needle is connected and the corresponding warp
Top, bottom coupling, mail eye and the dead weight lingo thread will be lifted to form shed. If there is no hole in
are supported by the harness cord. the card against any needle, the corresponding hook will
be pushed back and left down. When the griffe comes
Comber board: are perforated board extending across down, the cylinder is taken away from the needles and
the width of the loom, its objective is to spread the harness the hooks are forced back to original position by small
cords uniformly.
springs in the spring box [7].
Coupling: are part of the harness and consists of the Cards are punched in a card puncher in pre planned
top and the bottom loop, a mail and a lingo. manner depending on the designs to be produced on the
Lingo: are cylindrical dead weight suspended at the end fabrics. The four side cylinder is turned by a swing lever
of the coupling to keep the harness down. system of the jacquard to present a fresh card before the
needles for fresh selection of hooks for lifting.
4 Working of jacquard: Jacquard is a shedding device
attached to the top of a loom and controls a large Single Lift, Single Cylinder its parts and working
number of warp threads with a view to produce the mechanism: The Single Lift, Single Cylinder (SLSC)
Jacquard is the original and simplest type of mechanical
Textile & Handloom: Shawl Weaving Artisan : (NSQF - 2024) R.T. Ex.No 1.3.28 41